How can I super insulate my walls – part four: ground and first floor …

We used Rockwool Cavity insulation because we believe it;

  • Is very stable over the long term (it doesn’t slump);
  • Doesn’t deteriorate when it gets wet;
  • Is affordable; and
  • Is readily available.

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On the large dining room window we couldn’t fit window boxes so the cavity is exposed in the short term.

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When the brickwork went above the insulation the bricklayers and I had to clean out the mortar snots to avoid great lumps of mortar getting caught up within the insulation.

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By insulating ahead of the new bricks it seemed to keep the cavity cleaner although some mortar still got squashed into the cavity as the bricks were laid.

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After a couple of hours the mortar could be fished out from within the cavity – not a very pleasant task. If we had used a Rockwool batt with a greater density it may have been less affected by the mortar.

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The junction at the front with the existing wall started to go well despite the challenge of toothing out the existing wall.

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We sometimes used insulation retaining clips to hold the insulation in place but we didn’t always have a wall tie at the right spot.

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We had to make sure that the area above the lintel and beneath the DPC was filled with insulation.

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Rear elevation.

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Each of the three new window openings had to be started with a disk cutter.

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Rear elevation.

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I was pleasantly surprised at how well the polystyrene bead insulation had filled the original cavity.

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The bathroom window had to change from landscape to portrait to accommodate the new wall.

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We had the cement mixer set up in the front garden.

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Dave was very tolerant of my desire to make sure that the insulation was perfectly fitted. On one occasion we had to take a couple of bricks out to fill a hole.

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Gable wall.

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Dave and Pete managed to tooth out all the way to the top without breaking a single brick.

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